Oceanography (OFF505)
The course is aimed at students who want to apply their engineering education to the field of oceanography.
Course description for study year 2024-2025. Please note that changes may occur.
Course code
OFF505
Version
1
Credits (ECTS)
5
Semester tution start
Autumn
Number of semesters
1
Exam semester
Autumn
Language of instruction
English
Content
Introduction to waves: small-amplitude, linear wave theory, standing and propagating waves, transformation in shallow water, generation by wind and specification of a random sea, long waves with rotation, and internal waves. Introduction to tides: description of tides, tidal generation forces, equilibrium tide, and tidal analysis.
Properties of seawater. Conservation equations. Equations of motion. Coriolis effect. Geostrophic current. Inertial current. Planetary boundary layer flow. Wind-induced current. Bottom currents. Circulation flows. Tides. Global and local wind description. Mean wind. Wind gust. Wave forecast. Surface waves. Wave refraction. Non-linear waves. Breaking waves. Wave-current interaction.
Learning outcome
- To have a good physical understanding of phenomena contributing to the interaction between the atmosphere and the ocean, and which also contribute to the motions in the ocean.
- To have detailed knowledge of the global and local description of wind conditions, of how waves change due to change in water depth and interacting with currents.
- To have knowledge of non-linear and breaking waves.
- To have detailed knowledge of physical phenomena which contribute to currents in the ocean.
- To be able to make simple calculations of wind-, wave- and current conditions. To master the concepts and terminology which are used in the description of wind, waves, and currents.
Required prerequisite knowledge
Exam
Form of assessment | Weight | Duration | Marks | Aid |
---|---|---|---|---|
Written exam | 1/1 | 3 Hours | Letter grades | Approved, basic calculator |
Written exam on paper.