Oceanography (OFF505)

Content

Introduction to waves: small-amplitude, linear wave theory, standing and propagating waves, transformation in shallow water, generation by wind and specification of a random sea, long waves with rotation, and internal waves. Introduction to tides: description of tides, tidal generation forces, equilibrium tide, and tidal analysis.

Properties of seawater. Conservation equations. Equations of motion. Coriolis effect. Geostrophic current. Inertial current. Planetary boundary layer flow. Wind-induced current. Bottom currents. Circulation flows. Tides. Global and local wind description. Mean wind. Wind gust. Wave forecast. Surface waves. Wave refraction. Non-linear waves. Breaking waves. Wave-current interaction.

Learning outcome

1. To have a good physical understanding of phenomena contributing to the interaction between the atmosphere and the ocean, and which also contribute to the motions in the ocean.
2. To have detailed knowledge of the global and local description of wind conditions, of how waves change due to change in water depth and interacting with currents.
3. To have knowledge of non-linear and breaking waves.
4. To have detailed knowledge of physical phenomena which contribute to currents in the ocean.
5. To be able to make simple calculations of wind-, wave- and current conditions. To master the concepts and terminology which are used in the description of wind, waves, and currents.

Required prerequisite knowledge

Exam

Coursework requirements

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Method of work

Open for

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Literature